For information on our upcoming tours in this part of Japan, contact us! in 2026 (Nov 9th - 27th), we have a ‘staycation’ tour here - 9 days of great riding whilst staying in just 3 locations, allowing you to fully experience local life in rural Japan. Our co-founder Lee has a small house in the area, and with his knowledge of the area and local contacts, the opportunity to see ‘inside’ Japan awaits! Custom tours all year also available.

*The beautiful Iwashijima Itsukushima Shrine Torii*

Onomichi, a charming port city in Hiroshima Prefecture, is a place where history, culture, and an enthusiasm for all things cycling blend seamlessly. Known for its picturesque hillside temples, nostalgic alleyways and stunning views of the Seto Inland Sea, Onomichi has long been a destination for artists, writers, and filmmakers. In recent years, it has transformed into a cycling haven, attracting people from all over the world to ride the legendary Shimanami Kaido.

*The view of the start of the Shimanami Kaido from the hills above Onomichi. Credit: Ononavi.*

The depth of culture to be experienced here, the fascinating architecture and the ease by which you can travel to the islands in the Seto Sea, as well as the kindness of the local people, make Onomichi an ideal place for cyclists to be based in for three, four or even five days. It’s a little town that you’ll fall in love with easily…

A Rich Cultural Tradition

Onomichi’s history dates back over a thousand years, flourishing as a major port town during the Edo and Meiji periods. Merchants and sailors from all over Japan passed through its narrow streets, contributing to its rich cultural heritage. The city’s unique topography, with houses clinging to steep hillsides and temples overlooking the sea, has made it a favored setting for literature and film.

Many renowned Japanese directors have been inspired by Onomichi’s nostalgic streets. The legendary filmmaker Yasujiro Ozu shot his classic 1953 film Tokyo Story here, using the city’s tranquil atmosphere as a backdrop to his poignant family drama – a film often voted by critics and filmmakers alike as the best of all time.

Nobuhiko Obayashi, an Onomichi native, set several of his films in the town, including The Girl Who Leapt Through Time and I Are You, You Am Me, capturing the city’s charm and mystique. Today, visitors can follow the “Onomichi Movie Walk,” which highlights key locations featured in films.

Once a year, Onomichi also hosts a Bicycle Film Festival, attracting visitors from all over Japan and abroad!

Onomichi’s Rise as a Cycling Haven

While Onomichi has always been a cultural hotspot, it has recently gained fame as a premier destination for cycling. The Shimanami Kaido, a 70-kilometer cycling route connecting Honshu to Shikoku via a series of spectacular bridges, begins in Onomichi. The route has been hailed as one of the world’s most scenic cycling roads, attracting both professional and recreational cyclists.

To support this growing interest, Onomichi has embraced cycling culture with new facilities, events, and initiatives. Local businesses, guesthouses, and cafés cater specifically to cyclists, offering rentals, repair stations, and specialized services.

U2 Warehouse: A Cyclist’s Dream Stay

One of Onomichi’s most notable cycling-friendly establishments is Onomichi U2, a stylishly repurposed warehouse by the waterfront. Once a maritime storage facility, it has been transformed into a multi-purpose space that houses the Hotel Cycle, Japan’s first hotel designed exclusively for cyclists. Riders will be pleasantly surprised to find that the rooms come with bike racks, allowing guests to keep their bicycles in their room.

*The U2 Building features a bike hotel, a bike store, and a Tour de France cafe.*

Onomichi U2 also features a bike shop, a bakery, a bar, and a gourmet restaurant, making it a perfect place for cyclists to rest, refuel, and meet fellow travelers. The open, industrial-style architecture preserves the building’s original character while offering modern comforts.

Onomichi Share and Better Bicycles

Onomichi Share is a stylish co-working space housed in a renovated warehouse near the waterfront. It offers a creative environment with open desks, private rooms, and event spaces, catering to remote workers, entrepreneurs, and artists. With stunning views of the Seto Inland Sea, it’s a great place to work.

Better Bicycles, located inside Onomichi Share, is a cyclist shop specializing in high-quality bike rentals, repairs, and accessories. It promotes eco-friendly travel and provides custom rental bicycles, ideal for exploring Onomichi and the Shimanami Kaido. Both spaces reflect Onomichi’s blend of tradition, innovation, and its growing reputation as a cycling and creative hub.

*Onomichi Share is a great spot to get some work done*

*A very fun ride with the Better Bicycles team, the ‘POT NOODLE’ ride*

*The second of the Kaido bridges, reminiscent of the Golden Gate bridge*

Shimanami Cycling Project

The Shimanami Cycling Project works to enhance the cycling infrastructure, organize cycling tours, and maintain the famous ‘Blue Line’, which guides riders along the Kaido. The project collaborates with local governments and businesses to ensure that cyclists have a seamless and enjoyable experience.

To further promote Onomichi as a cycling hub, the city has launched ONONAVI, an official tourism website that provides comprehensive information on routes, accommodations, bike rentals, and cultural experiences. It serves as a valuable resource for first-time visitors looking to explore Onomichi and beyond. (Speak to the every helpful, always help Ishihara San if you go!)

Cycling Route 1: Onomichi – Tomonoura

Embarking on a cycling journey from Onomichi, Hiroshima to the historic port town of Tomonoura offers a delightful blend of scenic beauty and cultural immersion. Covering 45 kilometers, this route is known as the Shiomachi Kaido, guiding riders from the riverside to the seaside, all while enjoying the refreshing sea breeze.

As you pedal away from Hiroshima, the urban landscape gradually gives way to serene coastal vistas. The route meanders alongside the Ashida River, where the gentle flow of water mirrors the sky, creating a tranquil atmosphere. Crossing over bridges, you’ll be treated to panoramic views of the surrounding countryside, with fields stretching out beneath the expansive sky. The air is crisp, carrying the faint scent of the sea, hinting at the coastal destination ahead.

Upon arriving in Tomonoura, you’re greeted by a town where time seems to have paused. This picturesque fishing village retains the charm of the Edo period, with traditional wooden buildings lining narrow streets that lead to the harbor.

The iconic Joyato, an all-night lantern built in 1859, stands as a sentinel by the sea, symbolizing Tomonoura’s rich maritime heritage.

For a refreshing break, consider visiting Tomonoura A Cafe, situated in a renovated 160-year-old house adjacent to the Joyato. The cafe offers a stylish yet cozy atmosphere, perfect for relaxing after your ride. Their menu features dishes crafted from local seafood and vegetables, as well as drinks highlighting Hiroshima’s renowned lemons. On pleasant days, you might opt for takeout to enjoy your meal by the harbor, soaking in the scenic views.

Cycling to Tomonoura not only offers a physical journey but also a passage through time, immersing you in landscapes and traditions that have been cherished for centuries.

Ji-Cha runs the awesome Cyclo Dock in Onomichi. Head there for great repairs and rental bikes too!

Cycling Route 2: Shimanami Kaido

Embarking on the Shimanami Kaido cycling route offers an unforgettable journey through Japan’s Seto Inland Sea, connecting Honshu to Shikoku via a series of bridges and islands. This approximately 70-kilometer route is renowned for its breathtaking natural beauty, vibrant citrus farms, and the warm hospitality of the local residents.

The adventure begins in Onomichi, where cyclists often take a short ferry ride to Mukaishima Island, bypassing the steep ascent to the Shin-Onomichi Bridge. This brief ferry journey provides a serene introduction to the Seto Inland Sea, with panoramic views of the surrounding islands and the shimmering waters below.

*The beautiful route changes with the seasons*

As you pedal along the well-marked blue line of the Shimanami Kaido, the route unveils a tapestry of scenic landscapes. The path meanders through lush hills, offering vistas of turquoise waters dotted with verdant islands, creating an invigorating atmosphere as you pedal along through all this beauty.

Setoda

One of the highlights of the journey is passing through Ikuchijima Island, particularly the town of Setoda. This area is famed for its abundant citrus farms, especially lemon groves. Cyclists can often find small stands or farms offering freshly squeezed juice, providing a delightful and refreshing pause during the ride.

The local residents along the Shimanami Kaido are known for their friendliness and hospitality. Many have embraced the influx of cyclists, offering services, refreshments, and a warm welcome to travelers. This genuine kindness enhances the overall experience, making the journey not just a physical endeavor but a cultural exchange.

In Setoda, a must-visit spot for cyclists is the Shimanami VIA Cafe. Located along the route, this cycling-themed cafe serves as a hub for riders to rest, refuel, and connect with fellow enthusiasts, and to do some shopping. The owner is super nice too!

*Via Cafe sells a whole range of cycling clothing*

For a taste of local cuisine, Matsushige Okonomiyaki comes highly recommended. Situated near the Setoda ferry terminal, this establishment offers a cozy atmosphere where patrons can enjoy Hiroshima-style okonomiyaki—a savory pancake layered with noodles, cabbage, and various toppings. Pairing the meal with a selection from their sake offerings makes for a satisfying post-ride dining experience.

*The delicious okonomiyaki at Matsuchige, a carb-loader’s delight!*

Imabari

Imabari, the endpoint of the Shimanami Kaido, is an excellent place to stay after completing the scenic cycling route. Known for its maritime heritage, the city offers a relaxing atmosphere with a mix of modern comforts and traditional charm.

Cyclists can unwind in Imabari’s famous onsen (hot springs), such as Setouchi Jumonji Onsen, perfect for soothing tired muscles.

The city also boasts Imabari Castle, one of Japan’s few coastal castles, and delicious local cuisine, including Imabari yaki-tori (grilled chicken) and the region’s specialty, Imabari towel products. With cyclist-friendly hotels and guesthouses, Imabari provides a well-deserved rest before further exploring Shikoku.

Finally…

Cycling the Shimanami Kaido, and the other routes such as to Tomonoura, is more than just a ride – it’s an immersive journey through some of Japan’s most captivating landscapes, enriched by cultural encounters and culinary delights. Whether you’re an avid cyclist or a casual rider, this route offers an unparalleled adventure that lingers long after the journey ends.

Take a breath, slow down a little, and let the wonder of this place embrace you.

Feel free to contact us for info on our November tour and on out custom tours in this region.

CYCLING IN ONOMICHI & THE shimanami kaido

17,000 Views / our Tokyo to kyoto blockbuster!